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Bonjour East Coast - Part 1 - Quebec

Our first stop on our journey through Quebec and Maritime Canada was in Montreal.  This third largest city in Canada is just 5 hours (542 km) away from Toronto so the trip was not very exhausting.


After settling in our two night accommodation, we ventured out into the city in search of dinner.  We found that nearby our accommodation, there is 'Joe Beef' restaurant.  We walked in and they only had a seats available at the bar.  We helped ourselves to steak and ribs which were phenomenal! Little we knew, someone does not simply go to the Joe Beef with no reservation and get a seat. 

We enjoyed the meal so much, that we made reservation again for our return trip, and we found that they had only bar seating available (2 weeks in advance).


On the next day we started with the Museum of Archaeology Pointe-à-Callière, where we learned about the history of the city, old walls and buildings.  Well made, interactive displays guided us through the times in Montreal past.
The special exhibition was "Of Horses and Men" that showed the private collection of Émile Hermès on loan from Paris.  The displays walked us through the Émile Hermès passion for horses, horse anatomy and agility, as well as cultural significance of the horses throughout the human history.

Then we explored the city and its mix of old and new architecture.



Unfortunately the Science Center in Montreal was closed due to strike, so we were unable to explore it.  (More info on the strike: http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/montreal/old-port-strike-1.3602775)

From downtown we walked to the Brewery 'Dieu du Ciel!' for some beer and charcuterie and for  dinner we went for some seviche to a Brazilian restaurant 'Acajou'.   

Our next stop was Quebec City - 251 km  



We found accommodation on a tiny street just below the escarpment with a view of a St. Lawrence River.


Best way of getting to Quebec City was to walk the 395 stairs up!


And we did not count them. They were numbered for our convenience, but a number 12 stair was missing.  The stairs went from 11 directly to 13. Why did they leave 13 but missed the 12, we do not know. One of the locals showed us the missing number, but he did not know why or how it happened.


The stairs allowed us to climb up to the 'Plaines d'Abraham'. It was a site of the battle that took place on 13th September 1759 between the British and French Soldiers.  The interesting part of the battle was that the British defeated the French in a 30 minute battle. (See more at: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battle_of_the_Plains_of_Abraham)

Once on top, we first directed ourselves to the observation tower where a 360 view of the city can be experienced.  It also provided key and fun facts about Quebec City. Here we learned that temperatures in Quebec City can vary between 30s C in the summer and -40s C in the winter.


We then walked the streets of the city and had a great dinner at Noctem Artisans Brasseurs.  We also explored the lower Quebec and was able to find 'Pot en ciel'. This time around during the summer, but it was getting dark.

On the next day we visited the Citadelle. We were only able to take a guided tour as it is an active military post and an official residence of the Canada's monarch and its governor general.  The Royal 22e Régiment that station at the Citadel is the regiment that officially uses French as the only language of command.


The story is that the french speakers did not want to enlist into the military, because the language of command was English, and the military chaplains were protestant. Once the Royal 22e Régiment was created, it allow french speakers to enlist, receive orders in French and also have catholic chaplains.
(More info can be found at: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Royal_22nd_Regiment)

It is also worth noting that the mascot of the Regimnet is a goat.  Given to them by the Queen.
And the great view from the citadelle.


Lunch at Chez Temporel and off to the the Fortifications of Quebec and the Artillery Park where we learn about the history of the Quebec City the last walled city of North America.

Tasty traditional dinner at Aux Anciens Canadiens.  Shared the traditional testing place with a bottle of wine.

On the way to New Brunswick we stopped at Rivere-du-Loup to corss off an item from Ian's list of things to do.  We stopped there for some St. Hubert's lunch.  We also stopped at Formagerie Le Detour to pick up some cheese, which will hunt us for the rest of the trip, but that is a story for another blog.



On the way back we stayed at the Wendake reserve. The Huron-Wendat settled in the village of Lorette in 1697, now called Wendake. The current population of the Indian reserve is 1,555 persons (2001 census). The land area is only 1.46 km² (about 360 acres). They invite the tourists to stay at their long house inspired hotel and try the delicacies in the local restaurants.

On our first night at the reserve we had a great MENU DÉCOUVERTE with wine parings at the La-Traite restaurant situated at the hotel.  Specialties included bison as the main course.


After the morning of visiting the Wendake museum we had lunch at a local brew pub La Voie Matlee and we checked out the exhibits at the Museum of Civilization.  We had time to check out the 'Nanotech: The invisible revolution' where we had a chance to vote on nanotech using ducks (My duck name was I.T.)

picture curtesy of the Museum of Civilization

and the 'Like Cats and Dogs' exhibit.

picture curtesy of the Museum of Civilization

For dinner we came back to Wendake for a meal at Sagamite restaurant. Ate some deer, elk and bison at this very filling dinner for 2.

When leaving Quebec City for Montreal we stopped at the traditional site at Wendake and for some mandatory putine at 'Casse-Croûte Chez Micheline'.  Apparently the best putine around, and the curds were nice and squicky.

When we were going through Montreal again on our way back to stop at 'Joe Beef' for some oysters, escargot and steak.  The cherry desert was great!
Then we enjoy an evening walk in Montreal before heading down to our next stop and then home.

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